Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, pilgrimage, Santiago de Compostela, walking
As promised a route report.
We flew from Heathrow to La Coruna with Vueling, arriving on Saturday evening. We stayed in Hostal Mara which is of good quality, friendly and central. We spent two nights in Coruna which gave us a good opportunity to explore a lovely city (and to shelter from a terrible storm!).
We were able to have a proper beginning to our pilgrimage with Sunday morning Mass at the Church of Santiago, the traditional starting point of the Camino Ingles
and then some well spent tourist hours walking the city, visiting the Tower of Hercules, the only lighthouse of antiquity still in use, and Sunday dinner, which in Coruna means pulpo.
The first day walking was long, around 19 miles from Coruna to Hospital de Bruma, with a long climb near to the end. Our fitness was enough for this. I had a worry that we might not finish before dark, but we were fine (although anyone walking this in winter would have to break the journey using bus or taxi or be able to walk briskly). We did not have a long lunch break but there were opportunities for refreshment
note that my cake is the biggest
The route is easy to follow. A combination of the CSJ Guidebook and route marking meant we had no problems at all. Locals we met along the way were keen to chat and very helpful with directions.
As I have said before, I like the Camino’s combination of urban and rural walking. The first day included walking out of Coruna, a lovely stretch of promenade along a river, the odd bit of industrial zone, villages, and quiet country and forest paths.
We spent the night in the excellent Xunta Albergue at Bruma, looked after by Carmen the Hospitalera (see Johnnie Walker’s interview with her here) and in the company of a few other pilgrims. I think this was very important for Meenakshi who had not walked before; it gave a good experience of pilgrim life. Bruma is small but Carmen has arranged for a local restaurant to deliver food. We ate a very good menu – mine was Russian Salad, salmon and chips, fruit, bread and a carafe of vino tinto.
The second day was around 15 miles walking to the town of Sigueiro. This was a lovely walk on a mixture of quiet roads and paths giving precious views like this beautiful Church appearing across a field
Just before arriving in Sigueiro there is a 4km straight stretch along this forest path which tests the spirit and the feet
We stayed in the Hostal Miras which is basic but clean and friendly. The restaurant there is a particular gem – cheap, good home cooking and the best fish supper I have ever eaten.
The Church of St Andrew, across the river, was beautiful and welcoming, although you may want to check the Mass time; we arrived as the people were leaving, although we were graciously given a sello and time to pray.
Our final day was about 10 miles. The weather was terrible, continual driving rain and strong winds. In good weather, this would have been a beautiful walk; on this occasion it was heads down and walking as fast as we could. The first view of Santiago Cathedral on this route is about half an hour before you get there
Into the Cathedral to give thanks for arrival and for the pilgrimage, then a wonderful welcome at the Pilgrim’s Office (this route is not long enough for a Compostela, but it was definitely a testing pilgrimage and our certificates were earned), before hot showers and dry clothes at our hotel, the excellent Pension Girasol
and a good dinner with Johnnie Walker and the Big Man. The Botafumeiro swung at the evening Mass, we heard “two English pilgrims walked from A Coruna” at Pilgrim Mass the next day, there was plenty of time to absorb something of Santiago and time to put our feet up
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: camino, Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, occupy lsx, pilgrimage, prayer, priesthood, urban ministry
Coming back from our Camino Ingles walk has meant going straight into a week of intensive work. Today has been my first chance to draw breath and reflect.
I feel deeply refreshed, spiritually and mentally, by the Camino, if still a bit short on sleep. The Ingles meant for a short Camino of a few days, but it was an epic. It is interesting for me to compare it with the much longer Levante a couple of years ago.
It was, of course, a profound privilege to be able to walk it with Meenakshi. Sharing this has deepened our relationship; we have learned about each other and ourselves. And it felt a real achievement to have done it, hence those happy faces in the Obradoiro Square in Santiago – here we are in better weather the next day:
We stayed in albergues (pilgrim hostels) and hostals; we ate bocadillos and menus; we walked around 45 miles; we met other pilgrims; new friendships were made and others deepened. I will give a report on the route and tell some of the stories that came out of it soon – although Meenakshi has already told the one of me falling right at the end, which may be the best one. For me, the memories are held and prompted in my credencial, the pilgrim passport with its stamps:
I like walking the Camino routes. There is the fact of it being a pilgrimage, of walking to Santiago Cathedral, to the Apostle’s Tomb, to make prayers for particular people and situations. There is the sense of it being a conscious walk with God, of us doing our best to begin and end the day with prayers, of the times of silent walking so that prayers can be made, of going to Mass when possible.
There is the sense of walking with other pilgrims – both now and past. Thinking about the folk who made the difficult voyage from Bristol to La Coruna and then walked – although remembering that their route is probably shared with the N550; Some present day pilgrims (not us) walked its hard shoulder to save a kilometre or two on that dreadfully wet last day.
Taking a rest in a tunnel under a railway, we found a psalm and a prayer pasted to the wall by a pilgrim a few weeks before; their prayers inspiring and helping us on to our goal:
The Camino route took us through a great deal of peaceful beauty, but it is also deeply honest and incarnational. It meant walking out of urban A Coruna, through the industrial zones on the outskirts of Sigueiro, past outer urban social housing and then beggars in Santiago. It is not an escape from the difficulties of the world. Coming back home to the realities of ministry in outer urban parishes in a time of recession and economic and social difficulty, to the Occupy protests (and the initial mess that St Paul’s had made in London), I am glad that I walked the Way I did. There is a very close connection, a deep reality of it all being taken into prayer, of a new readiness to exercise my priesthood. A deeply good pilgrimage.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: camino, Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, pilgrimage, Santiago de Compostela
Hello, I’m Meenakshi, and dad and I thought it would be nice if i just contributed a post to the blog about our recent pilgrimage to Santiago last week. I will just share a couple of things-
The thing I enjoyed most about our walk was getting up in the morning and just walking, without having to worry or over think anything, knowing that each step we took was getting us closer to our goal.
The thing I hated the most was, probably most obviously, the rain! Although it wasn’t pleasant having to trudge along with soggy boots, it didn’t stop our enjoyment of the pilgrimage, and once we’d arrived, the weather was forgotten.
The most funny thing that happened in Spain, although it makes me feel very guilty for saying this, was when dad fell completely over on the wet patio when we were being shown our room by the lovely lady in our hotel in Santiago. Although we were relieved to see he wasn’t hurt, the mental image of his glasses flying across the ground still makes me chuckle to myself.
And finally, the thing i learnt was to be determined and motivated, and when it got hard, and it did many times, was to just keep walking, keep faith and when we reached the Cathedral, i felt a massive sense of achievement and very privileged to have had all of these amazing experiences while on pilgrimage.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: camino, Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, confraternity of st james, photos, pilgrimage, Santiago de Compostela
We are back home now. It was a fantastic pilgrimage. The Ingles from A Coruna is an excellent route. It might be short, but it is certainly testing but with a great deal of beauty. I would definitely recommend it; the signposting and the CSJ Guide were great; we were in no danger of losing the way. I would hope to walk from Ferrol and investigate that slightly longer route next time it possible to walk a short Camino.
It was a deeply spiritual experience, not least because of walking with Meenakshi – and I think it is going to take me quite a bit of time to mine this experience, which is something I’m really looking forward to. As with the Levante a couple of years ago, the benefits of the Camino unfold in their own time.
Thanks to everyone for your prayers, good wishes and comments – they are appreciated especially in the tough times. There will be some more posts soon, telling some of the stories – as well I hope a guest post from Meenakshi. In the mean time some photos:
walking out of A Coruna - a day of heavy rain and bright sun, often at the same time
It took an hour and a quarter to climb this hill towards the end of a nineteen mile day
bocadillo power!
arrival!
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, pilgrimage
A very brief post from an internet cafe in Santiago. Meenakshi and I have had an amazing Camino. The Ingles might be short, but it is epic. It has certainly been a real pilgrimage, especially walking through all that Galicia had to throw at us yesterday. I need to spend some time reflecting on all that this week means, but there will be plenty of stories to tell.
Home tomorrow,
Hasta luego,
Andy
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, pilgrimage, preparation
Amongst the busyness of life and work I am spending as much time as I can this week getting ready to go to Galicia for our small but challenging pilgrimage.
This readying is happening at a number of levels. There are the practical things to be done. Our transport is all booked, I have to get currency, I’ve annotated the CSJ Guide to the route. Meenakshi and I are assembling our kit (I’ll post a photo of it when it’s all ready and a kit list if I have time). My list for the Levante is here. A three day walk and the ability to share things between the two of us means it will be more focussed this time.
I have realised that my Spanish skills have deteriorated badly. When I finished two years ago, people told me off if I said my Spanish was poco – it was a decent standard, if very rough and ready. Now it is tiny. Fortunately I have found a teacher, Gilda, and will have enough for the Camino. This time, I will keep it up; I am planning to be reasonably fluent when I get the chance to go on the next big walk.
Again, I am experiencing the generosity of pilgrims who have walked the route recently and spend a lot of care giving advice – thanks especially to John and Mig.
I am preparing emotionally. There are some nerves and trepidation. I’m fighting off a cold, which is a sign of this. It might be a short walk in terms of days, but it promises to be testing. Especially the first day – 19 odd miles with a long climb at the end. I am a bit jealous of Meenakshi who is very excited by it – I need to learn from her!
And I am preparing spiritually. I am aware how much I am prayed for – once again, going away on pilgrimage reveals just how much I am loved and how I am held in a cats cradle of prayer. On Sunday, at the end of the Eucharist at St Bede’s, Meenakshi and I came forward in our boots, and with our rucksacks and shells to receive this ancient Pilgrim Blessing (sorry to folk at St Gabriel’s that it didn’t happen with you too – I only remembered it at the last minute and needed another priest):
(The text of a medieval rite dated 1078 preserved in the Missal of Vich Cathedral, Barcelona, Spain. At the Abbey of Roncesvalles the blessing is used at the end of the Mass for the blessing of pilgrims passing through).
Priest: Our help is in the name of the Lord.
Response: Who made heaven and earth.
Priest: The Lord be with you.
Response: And also with you.
Let us pray.
O Lord whose word makes all things holy, bless we beseech you these emblems, rucksacks and staffs to be used on this pilgrimage. May all those who carry them arrive safely at the shrine of St. James the Apostle, the objective of their journey. We ask this through Christ our Lord.R: Amen
Presenting the Rucksacks
(When presenting the rucksacks the priest says: “In the name of the Lord”)
In the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, shoulder these rucksacks which will help you during your pilgrimage. May the fatigue of carrying them be expiation for your sins, so that when you have been forgiven you may reach the shrine of St. James full of courage, and when your pilgrimage is over, return home full of joy. We ask this through Christ our Lord.
R: Amen
Presenting the shells and other emblems
Receive these shells and medals, as signs of your pilgrimage. With God’s grace may you behave as true pilgrims throughout your entire journey and be able to reach your objective, which is to visit the shrine of St, James and gain indulgences. We ask this through Christ our Lord.
R: Amen
Blessing the Pilgrims
Lord Jesus Christ, you taught us through the Apostle St Paul that here below we have no lasting city and must always seek the heavenly city. Hear our prayers for these pilgrims we commission. May the Holy Spirit breathe his grace into their hearts; may he enliven their faith, strengthen their hope and feed the flame of their love. May they thus make their pilgrimage in the true spirit of penance, sacrifice and expiation. May the same spirit purify their minds from every evil thought. May he defend their hearts and give them the constant help of his protection so that they can reach the objective of their journey safely and by means of this pilgrimage they are now starting merit to come one day to the heavenly Jerusalem. You who live and reign with the Father and the Holy Spirit, one God, forever and ever.
R: Amen
May the Lord always guide your steps and be your inseparable companion throughout your journey.
R: Amen
May our Lady of Roncesvalles grant you her motherly protection, defend you against all dangers of soul and body. Through her intercession may you arrive safely at the end of your pilgrimage.
R: Amen
May St Raphael the Archangel accompany you throughout your journey as he accompanied Tobias and ward off every contrary or troublesome incident.
R: Amen
And may almighty God bless you, the Father, Son and Holy Spirit.
R: Amen
Go in the peace of Christ
(Translated from a French version of the Latin original by Brother David Leo fsc.
Copies available from the Confraternity of St James http://www.csj.org.uk)
A little more packing; some work to clear. I am ready.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: albergues, camino, Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, confraternity of st james, credencial, peterborough pilgrims, pilgrim passports, pilgrimage, st bede's brandwood
In just over a week, Meenakshi and I will be travelling to Spain to walk the Camino Ingles from A Coruna to Santiago. We seem to have been planning and preparing for this for ages; at last there is a school holiday when I’m not working and which is not followed immediately by exams. There should be a few posts about this in the coming week and then hopefully some live blogs from the Camino.
One of the lovely parts of the Camino is the credencial or pilgrim’s passport. You can buy one in Spain or France when you begin the Camino or you can get one in advance from one of the Camino Associations. The passport is proof that you are a pilgrim and entitles you to stay in albergues, the pilgrim hostels along the pilgrim routes. Getting it stamped once or twice a day serves as proof to the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago Cathedral that you have walked or cycled far enough to qualify for a Compostela. The stamps (sellos in Spain, tampons in France) come from all sorts of places – churches, cathedrals, albergues, hostals, police stations, town halls, convents, bars and restaurants. They are a wonderful souvenir and memory of the Camino.
Here is my Confraternity of St James credencial from the Camino Ingles two years ago, with a page that includes the sello that is most important to me. Do you want to know which this is and why?
This time, for a change and because we are only walking for three days, we will be using the Credencial de Peregrinos issued by Santiago Cathedral. Rather than getting them from the Church of Santiago in A Coruna, I have got them in advance – thanks to Ian at Peterborough Pilgrims – as I would like to start things off with a stamp from my churches here.
Yesterday, I was looking through the archive at St Bede’s, Brandwood for some photos of Church activities in the 1960′s. Amongst the papers I found this Pilgrim Passport from the Birmingham Diocesan Pilgrimage to Canterbury in 1986 (well before my time here). This seems to be a good pointing to the pilgrimage in a week. I like the Pilgrimage Collect (click on the photo to enlarge it) and will use it next year when I complete walking the Pilgrim’s Way to Canterbury.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: camino 2011, Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, pilgrimage, preparation
We are in the midst of preparation for the Camino Ingles in two months time. For me, preparation is important, although I know this isn’t necessarily the case; it would be possible to throw some kit into a rucksack, put on your boots and start.
The preparation has a number of layers and aspects. The obvious one is physical, the walking with the rucksack you will be carrying and the boots you will be wearing until you are ready to do the daily mileage you will be doing on the Camino. This has mental dimensions too, knowing you are able to do it when you having tough days later on. The longest day on our Camino this year will be the first from A Coruna which I think is about 18 miles. We are walking 15-16 miles on training walks; if we can do this, we will be able to do 18.
Another mental aspect is learning Spanish. Meenakshi is lucky as she does this at school. Before I walked the Levante a couple of years ago, I did a year of Spanish evening classes. This time, and as work is particularly busy at the moment, I’m brushing up, revising and just having a few lessons. I think the more Spanish you have, the better your experience will be.
There’s also the anticipation, the spiritual preparation, the thinking through what the Camino might mean, assembling the kit and so forth. I did a talk about the Camino at St Gabriel’s last week. It is really enjoyable for me to share the pilgrimage with others. As with last time, it seems that it becomes a community endeavour, affecting far more than the people doing the walking. Also, this time, we are seeking sponsorship (if you want to sponsor us, we are walking for St Gabriel’s Church in Weoley Castle and for the St James Kidney Patients Association – let me know if you want to give any money).
I wrote some posts as I was preparing for the Levante in 2009 which you can read here. I’ll post our kit list for two people on the Camino Ingles nearer the time.
And it is important – most of all – to enjoy all that the preparation can give:
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: boots, camino 2011, Camino de Santiago, Camino Ingles, meenakshi, pilgrimage, preparation, st gabriel's weoley castle
Meenakshi, my daughter, and I will be walking the Camino Ingles from A Coruna to Santiago in the October Half Term holiday. I’m really looking forward to it. It will be a much shorter pilgrimage than the Levante – about 46 miles which we are planning to walk in three days – but it will be great to share it with Meenakshi and it will be her first long walk.
We are using the last few days of my summer holiday to begin preparations. We’ve bought new boots (I’ve gone for a heavier leather pair this time – Meindl Burmas – as I want something as waterproof as possible). We walked 15 miles yesterday around Broadway in the Cotswolds and will walk again on Monday and Tuesday, Meenakshi with a rucksack. I’m looking forward to immersing myself in Spanish language again and beginning the process of assembling all the kit we will carry.
We have decided to seek sponsorship – for kidney dialysis and for St Gabriel’s Church, Weoley Castle – and will be launching this at a talk on the Camino at St Gabriel’s, Weoley Castle, B29 5PL on Saturday 20th August in the evening. You are very welcome to come along.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Santiago, film, la voie lactee, luis bunuel, Mary, pilgrimage, the milky way
I have enjoyed watching Luis Bunuel’s film La Voie Lactee – or The Milky Way.
It tells the story of the pilgrimage of two French men along the Camino de Santiago (called the Milky Way since early times as the stars showed the route). As you would expect with Bunuel, there are frequent strange enounters and there is a lot of journeying through time and through space. It also explores Christian heresy and its relation to orthodox belief (there is a wonderful scene of dialectic in action as a Jansenist and a Jesuit fight a duel, breaking off to exchange verbal argument, and then walk off arm and arm in agreement). But for me, it really does capture something of the pilgrimage – or rang true to my experience of it.
I would recommend you watch it if you can find the dvd.
It also expresses beautifully Bunuel’s devotion to Mary – and I can feel a post forming for next week about pilgrimage in Spain and the Blessed Virgin Mary.
