Thank you to Belinda for a fantastic and unexpected kindness for the Camino Ingles. I’m brought back into memories of walking and spending time with pilgrims on the days after Zamora – and of meetings at Pilgrim Mass in Santiago. And looking forward to being in Spain again in a month.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: friendship, Johnnie Walker, La Terraza, pilgrimage, wine
Yesterday was a day. Bharti, Meenakshi and I went to London for a special Galician meal at La Terraza in Clapham. I had been there for lunch with Johnnie Walker just after I returned from my Camino. Over food and vino we had talked long and dreamed dreams. One of the ideas was that La Terraza needed a sello. It is a fine place to give sustenance to a hungry pilgrim.
As this still seemed like a good idea the next morning, Bharti designed a sello, La Terraza decided on what it should say, it was made and we took it to lunch. Johnnie Walker was there, and we were joined by our old friends Barbara and Taffy (Barbara having walked the Camino Frances twenty years ago), their daughter Margaret and grandchildren Michael and Rachel (who are all accomplished walkers).
Good food was eaten, plenty was drunk, and conversations were begun which we will continue on another occasion. And then, at the end of the meal, we presented the sello to Don Antonio, the patron of La Terraza:
Credencial
I’m hoping that someone else managed a photo of all of, but in the meantime,
danger - photographers at work
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Levante, friendship, pilgrimage
On the 15th October I walked from Campobercerros to Laza with Jose Carlos, a pilgrim from Brazil. I did not know Jose Carlos before the Pilgrimage. We met after Zamora, found we were very comfortable in one another’s company, became good friends and walked together for two or three weeks (not least because when we parted, we found we caught up again by accident). Jose Carlos taught me a lot, not least giving me the gift of slowing down and taking things at a much more measured pace (was this the pilgrim pace?). We arrived in Laza in the early afternoon, went to the excellent new albergue, changed, showered, washed our clothes, and then went to eat. A very good meal of paella, chicken and chips, salad, bread, wine, ice cream and coffee, all for €9 at La Picota. Then siesta.
And then – a wonderful Camino night. Two French pilgrims had arrived. We all went to Mass for Santa Teresa of Avila. The French pelerins were leaving early the next morning and wanted bread. We could not find the bakery. A man stopped his car, got out, banged on a door and summoned the old woman inside to open her bakery “Because there are pilgrims who need bread”.
dinner at la picota
Then dinner. I was so full that I could eat no more (Jose Carlos’s friends and relatives will see he has just eaten his second Menu of the day), but when I tried to stay downstairs in the bar of La Picota, I was told to go up to the restaurant anyway. And a magical evening of talking in a basic mixture of Spanish and French about the very deepest things of God and humanity. Wonderful, such a gift.
And then, in the morning, the French pilgrims had gone, and we climbed on to Vilar de Barrio.
I have been prompted to think about the gift of friendship and the Camino in the last few days. On Thursday I went to London for a meeting and after it met up with Johnnie Walker for dinner at La Terazza Galician Restaurant in Clapham. John is a Camino stalwart and left me a couple of messages saying exactly the right thing at exactly the right time when I was struggling. (John also writes an extremely good blog on the Camino and gives an account of our meal here.)
I had not met John before, but our email conversations had given me a good feeling, something borne out over great conversation – and not only the Menu del Dia but the dishes of pulpo and glasses of orujo that also appeared. Another friendship came out of the pilgrimage, plans began to be hatched and dreams began to be dreamed for future Caminos, good questions were asked to deepen reflection, and we laughed. And drank wine.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Levante, friendship, pilgrimage, prayer
This morning Jose Carlos, the Brazilian pilgrim I have been journeying with this week, and I woke at 7. After a breakfast of fruit, bread and cheese we left the small and very good municipal albergue in Lubian at first light and began climbing. Two hours later we stood at the Portela de Canda at the top of the mountain. We had entered Galicia, the Province in North Western Spain which contains Santiago. This was magical. The wind was strong, trying to blow us off the mountain, the sun shone, we could see for miles. We picked up stones and leaves. Jose Carlos, who is on his third memory stick, took many photos. There are now mile stones along the Camino. The one at the top told us we have 249km to walk. Then the descent through woods to green, green fields. After all the scorched land of the last months I could have been in England. And then moorland. After the cold start (again it could have been England in October) a scorching sun and hard miles to plod into A Gudiña.
The last week or so has been very different from the first part of my Pilgrimage. After those ten days walking through La Mancha, absolutely flat, red, now the mountains are a feast for the eyes and the soul. I would not exchange the first month for anything, but now (when I am not exhausted) is a time for delight and joy. There are other pilgrims; not many but it is good to have quiet company on the Way.
I had wondered whether the way local people treat me might change now I am on a route where I am not the only pilgrim. Not a bit, still full of love and generosity. Two examples from the weekend, which Monday being the National Day of Spain, was a holiday.
Entering a village we came upon an extended family cooking a huge meal in the open. Good conversation was had about what we were doing. It was just possible to get away without eating a full meal (this would have jeopardised our ability to walk), but we ate hot tortilla and drank beer.
In Puebla de Sanabria, we had put our hats on a Pilgrim Sculpture for a photo. A Spanish family on holiday also wanted a photo and it ended up with Mother and Father wearing the hats. Jose Carlos has walked from Somport to Astorga and then from Salamanca. Spanish people are mightily impressed by our walking, and there is certainly a deep connection between the Spanish soul and La Mancha.
Hasta luego.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Levante, friendship, pilgrimage
We received this email from him yesterday and found it amusing enough to publish – hopefully Andy will think so too. We especially like the bit where he’s “hay but tired”! Bharti and Meenakshi.
hi, the letter after o doesn´t work on this keyboard, which means i can,t access the blog. Could you edit this and ost it on the blog. I´m in Santa Croya de Tera after a day of trudging through tremendous thunderstorms and driving rain. I´m staying in a lovely rivate alberguee where i am being fed cared for by the owners. I will stay here for 2 days because i need a rest and this is a good lace to get it. Im walking with other ilgrims or meeting u with several of the same eole each afternoon and good friendshis have been made. I am now on the Camino Sanabria variant of the Via de la lata. This means that there are a reasonable number of other ilgrims and a lot of infrastructure. the last few nights i have been staying in municial albergues, which are basic ilgrim hostels with a dormitory, showers, etc. Im hay but tired. This is very different from the first art of the ilgrimage, but good and much less hard. I am in the good osition of being able to take my time in getting to santiago now. Andy.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Camino de Levante, friendship, gratitude, pilgrimage, prayer
Hi everyone, and thanks for your love and support – it means such a lot especially in the tough times.
I am having a rest day in Chinchilla, which is a fantastic hilltop fortress town. As I write this, morning mist is being burned off by the sun.
At the moment (and not to tempt fate) things are going well. I have got into the routine of getting up before dawn. washing and packing, saying Morning Prayer, and leaving at first light. I then walk until I get to the end of the days stage, find my accomodation, eat, sleep, write up my journal, find the way for the next day, go to Mass if possible.
So far, the walking has been very varied and enjoyable. After the coastlands of Valencia, industrial farming, and small historic towns, I climbed up into the mountains. Thge stage from Almansa to Higuluera was particularly stunning. It was also isolated – I met 2 people in 27 miles. The long stages have been tough and have taken it out on my feet. Blisters came without warning , although I may have been too tired to notice – at a couple of points I was sleeping and walking at the same time. Feet are Ok though and blisters under control. I am also learning how to pray while walking the continued long stages. I especially value the first couple of hours in the morning while the sun is still coming up.
What am I learning?
The first days were hellishly difficult. I am so grateful for all the help and support I received. I know that I am no strong enough to do this on my own. (I know I really put Bharti through it – thanks my love). I have also received nothing but help and kindness from the Spanish people I have encountered on the way. Just three small examples: Raul at the folk museum and albergue in Algemesi who took me to the doctor; a farmer who called me over yesterday morning and gave me one of the watermelons he was harvesting for his breakfast; Fr Sebastian here who gave me beer last night and who has leant me his computer this morning. I am making a solitary pilgrimage, but I have learned so much that I am part of God´s good web of humanity.
I am beginning to reflect on health and wholeness, and how this is part of God´s economy of salvation. More on this perhaps another day.
(I should also add that according to my calculations, there are more or less exactly 700 miles to go. For some reason this seems significant!)
Love to you all.
