Pilgrimpace's Blog


I’ve been enjoying following the progress of my friends John and the Big Man who are walking the Camino de Levante.  This is bringing back a host of memories of my own experiences a year or two ago.  You can read John’s blog posts here.

John’s letters bring out something of the beauty, joy and harshness of this solitary route.  They have met more pilgrims than on my very solitary walk, but at least I avoided meeting others coming the other way because they had given up.

John and the Big Man are very experienced pilgrims and I am looking forward to talking with them to find out how they think the Levante compares with other routes.  Rebekah has just walked with them for a few days and has posted beautifully on it here.  I have such memories of that heat.  Struggling into one town in the raging heat of early afternoon I needed to ring the albergue to get the owner to open up for me.  My brain stopped working properly.  Spanish deserted me and I couldn’t get my mobile to work.  A couple of kind Spanish men saw me, took pity and brought me into their house.  They wanted to give me whiskey, which in my overheated and dehydrated state was the last thing I needed.  They gave me cool refreshing water from their well.   They were rather non-plussed by my walking in such weather and decided that I must be on pilgrimage to repent of many sins (let the reader decide).  They rang a friend for me or arrived and wanted to take me to his vastly expensive five star hotel.  I had to decline politely.  Cooling down and recovering from too much sun, I managed to get into the albergue.  As I passed my credencial to the owner for a sello, he read the letter in introduction my bishop had given me, and did not want to take any money.  The only way I could get him to accept a fair amount was to insist it was for the Church.



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