Pilgrimpace's Blog

camino de santiago anglican chaplaincy launched

Great news from the Diocese in Europe.  If you are in Anglican Orders, have walked the Camino, and are interested in volunteering, please contact Alasdair Kay (details below).

And details of how it works for pilgrims will follow soon.


A new initiative is being launched in the Gibraltar Archdeaconry – a fresh expression – to be known as the Camino de Santiago Chaplaincy. Working with the Revd Alasdair Kay from the Derby Diocese, Bishop David Hamid and Archdeacon Geoff Johnston will launch this new initiative in May in Santiago de Compostela.

Anglican clergy, all volunteers with Permission to Officiate, will stay in accommodation in the city to provide pastoral care and support for pilgrims and to celebrate the Holy Eucharist on Sundays and other Holy Days. Sybille Yates will be coordinating arrangements of clergy and volunteers on the ground, while the Revd Alastair Kay will advise, liaise and coordinate the Chaplains who will likely come from many parts of the Anglican Communion. Episcopal oversight is given by Bishop David and Archdeacon Geoff has general oversight of the project. Contacts have been make with key Roman Catholics in the city, especially Don Segundo, the Dean of the Cathedral, who is supporting this venture and who appreciates its ecumenical significance.

“It has long been thought that English-speaking pilgrims, especially those from the Anglican Communion would value coming together in Santiago at the end of a pilgrimage to worship, pray and share their experiences and how much walking the Camino means to them and their Christian lives” said Archdeacon Geoff. “This is becoming increasingly necessary as the numbers taking part in the pilgrimage are growing steadily every year with about 300,000 walking just one of the caminos last year. We are recruiting Anglican chaplains to serve in the city from May to June and again from September to October. Each Chaplain will be there for about two weeks and will be available to talk with pilgrims and pray with them as well as celebrating the Eucharist together on Sundays.”

This is a new and inclusive ministry serving not only Anglicans, but English-speaking Christians of other denominations as well as others who arrive in Santiago searching for spiritual meaning in their lives.

Anglican clergy who have walked the Camino, and who would like to volunteer to share in this ministry and can give of their time and travel at their own expense, are invited to contact the Revd Alasdair Kay (revaskay@gmail.com) for further information.

Anglican Led Ecumenical Chaplaincy in Santiago


The Camino Chaplaincy has announced the development of a new, inclusive Anglican led ministry for pilgrims arriving in Santiago as the third and final part of its strategic plan.

The Chaplaincy piloted the first organised Welcome Service for pilgrims in Santiago which is now funded permanently by the Pilgrims’ Office. The Chaplaincy then went on to provide daily RC Mass in English in the Cathedral for three years. This is now permanently provided by a priest on the staff of the Cathedral who improved his language skills sufficiently in English through participating in the three year pilot.
The Anglican Led Ecumenical Chaplaincy will run for a 12 week pilot period in 2018 and will provide support, prayer and Mass for people of all faiths and everyone searching for deeper spiritual meaning in their lives.

This new initiative is supported by the Anglican Diocese in Europe and has been approved by Bishop David Hamid.

The ministry will be developed and directed by a Steering Committee chaired by the Rev Alasdair Kay. Other members include:
Rev Karen Spray
Rev Andy Delmege
Rev Liska Lasko
Rev Paul Smith

Sybille Yates who lives in Santiago and runs Egaria House will coordinate the ministry.

This is a new service for pilgrims and visitors to Santiago. It is expected that ordained priests of churches in the Anglican Communion will serve for a minimum of two weeks, although longer placements are welcome. The Chaplaincy will provide accommodation in Santiago. Volunteer priests must meet all other expenses.

For further information see:www.caminochaplaincy.blogspot.com.

To apply please email: caminochaplaincy@gmail.com.

north wales pilgrim way – report

A few weeks ago, R, M and I walked the North Wales Pilgrim Way from west to east (Aberdaron to Holywell).  This is the ‘wrong’ direction (in that it is signposted east to west).  We did this as I am filling in the sections of the Cistercian Way which I missed when I hurt my knee last autumn.


Maddy asked me to see how viable walking the route in this direction is, as a possible alternative route for people walking the Cistercian Way.  If you were walking the whole of the CW, you would pick up this route south of Conwy and follow it to Holywell and Basingwerk before turning south down the borders.

The route is advertised as being 134 miles.  We possibly walked a little less than this.  We missed a section from Penygroes to Waunfawr as we were staying with a friend in Waunfawr and arrived in Penygroes too late and with too little energy to get to Waunfawr (I’ll walk this section when I stay with my friends next).  We also bypassed Bangor in order to finish the route before I had to get back to work.

However, some re-routing of the Coastal Path near the beginning (you can’t get off of it for ages) and our working out our own route between villages (as the route is unmarked in this direction) meant some miles added on.

The route is no more difficult to follow than the rest of the Cistercian Way in this direction (ie you need to have a good map and to use it).

The North Wales Pilgrim Way website is helpful:


The Guidebook was not useful walking west -east.


For me, it was a great route.  There is not much infrastructure so we carried camping equipment.  As there were three of us, wildcamping was more difficult (we did it once), but we mainly used campsites or got permission to camp in fields.  We stayed with friends, in the Youth Hostel at Rowan, and in a pub in St Asaph.

The route is varied and testing.  I think we averaged around 16 miles per day with full packs (my knee held up well).  There are some real pilgrimage highlights along the way:

The weather was good on our first day so we were able to get the boat across to Bardsey (you need to book this in advance).  We paid our respects to RS Thomas at Aberdaron.  There are ancient churches closely associated with St Bueno at Pistyll (the floor covered in rushes) and Clynnog Fawr – which also has a large, but very mucky, holy well.  High up, before Rowen and the steep descent to the river, you follow the Roman road.  In the Churchyard at Llangernyw is a 4000 year old yew; and nearby at Gwytherin is the mound where Winefrede had her monastery and was buried before she was moved to Shrewsbury, putting aside all the romantic legends about what actually happened, I found this a very special place; I want to go back.  And we finished on a very hot day with a plunge into the very cold waters at Holywell.


Some reflections and stories to follow (this is, for example, the first time I have been on pilgrimage and helped someone turf a grave …)

sacred landscapes 3
July 6, 2017, 6:26 pm
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We accidentally found ourselves at the top of Glencolumbkille, the valley of St Columba, who brought Christianity into Scotland at Iona and from there into northern England.


There were the remains of a religious building at Fahee North


and penitential stations that seem to have been rebuilt by pilgrims in the 1700s and 1800s


a holy, sacred and special place.

Makes me reach for my pack and boots

the future of hospitality on the camino
March 31, 2017, 12:48 pm
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wp-image-1124069113jpg.jpegThe future of hospitality on the Camino. Rebekah Scott

I’m sharing this important piece on pilgrimage by my friend Rebekah Scott.  There is a lot here about the nature of pilgrimage and how pilgrims and local people interact – lots to ponder, even for those of us who might be presently engaged with very quiet pilgrim paths.


“This is an address delivered at the 2017 gathering of American Pilgrims on the Camino (APOC) in Atlanta, Ga. last weekend, on “the future of hospitality on the camino.” It ruffled a few feathers, which is always good. I post it here by popular demand:
I am not a prophet. I can’t tell you what the future holds, and anyone who says he can has pants on fire.
I can tell you, though, about trends, and about what I’ve seen on the ground on the Way over a period of more than 20 years. I am as trustworthy a guide as anybody. So,
We stand here together in the present, at a crossroads.
We all have come here from a vast and varied place called the Past, a country that for most of us included at least one long, hard voyage along the Camino de Santiago.
Most of us are weathered veterans. Out there you walked until you were ready to drop. When you needed it most, you found a place with a bed and maybe a beer and maybe a smiling face: a welcome. A Camino Welcome. Stop there. Look around at the place your mind has chosen to illustrate “Camino Hospitality.” Where are you? Your subconscious chose this particular place, of all the many places you stopped and stayed along the Way. So set down a marker here.
Continue on with me.
Into the here and now. We are gathered here today in Atlanta, far away from the physical Camino, but immersed in a virtual Way that’s made up of people much like us.
From our comfortable chairs we look today into an entirely new country, an unexplored territory, wild and woolly and probably scary. We’re looking at The Future.
My name is Rebekah Scott, an American pilgrim from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. My Camino Past goes back to 1993, when I first stepped onto the Camino de Santiago. I went there as a travel journalist, an honored guest of the Tourist Office of Spain – it was a marketing ploy on their part. They wanted our articles in North American newspapers and magazines to lure well-heeled tourists to this “adventure destination.” There wasn’t a whole lot to see on the Camino in those days, hospitality and accommodation-wise. We visited “refugios,” – abandoned schools, convent dorms, and remodeled garages where pilgrims could stay for little or nothing.
They were usually rather dirty and cold — the refugios as well as the people inside. Pilgrims cooked their own meals, or ate from cans and packages they bought at supermarkets and carried with them. Menu del Dias were only on offer in big towns. Pilgrims walked in huge mountain-hiking boots, or sneakers and jeans and t-shirts. They carried their things in school bags and Army backpacks. There was no wifi. No one even had a mobile phone. It was 24 years ago, but it was the Stone Age of the modern camino. About 26,000 people made the trip, and that was a special holy year.
It was scruffy and ancient and full of character. I fell in love.
When I think of that first taste of the Camino, and I think of hospitality, I think of a stranger who stepped out onto the road as we passed through a little Leonese village. He greeted us, offered us a glass of his home-made wine. There was no price tag. He did it just because.
I met Jesus Jato, a mad man with a ramshackle albergue growing up inside his burned-out greenhouse in Villafranca de Bierzo. He needed a haircut. My coffee mug was unwashed. The showers were garden hoses stapled to the wall, with cold water only. The place was more like a refugee camp than an albergue, but the hollow-eyed young Spanish pilgrims bunking there did not complain. This was a pilgrimage, they told me. It was all about roughing it, doing without, crucifying the flesh.
I stayed and talked – as much as I could – to the pilgrims and Jato and Jato’s wife. I took tons of notes, and photos. They invited me to stay for dinner – lentils and bread, wine and cheese. There were six of us there that night. When I asked what I owed, Jato pointed at the donation box. “Whatever you want to pay,” he said.
I said goodbye. “We’re just getting started, you know,” he told me. “I’ll see you again.”
I am not a prophet, but Jesus Jato is. He could see the future. He saw mine.
I came back alright. In 2001 I finally walked the whole thing. I knew then I needed to change my life, become a part of this phenomenon.
I became a volunteer hospitalero in 2003, trained at an APOC/Canadian Company joint gathering in Toronto. I went back to the Camino time after time and served two-week stints at pilgrim shelters all over the caminos. I learned the caminos from the other side of the desk.
In 2006 I emigrated altogether. My husband and I bought an old farm in the middle of the camino, and opened the doors to pilgrims who need a place to stay – a little like mad old Jato, but on a much smaller and more private scale. In the years since I’ve written guides to alternative trails, trained new volunteers for the Spanish hospitalero voluntario program, wrote a training program now in use in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. I wrote a camino novel, even.
We have been hosting pilgrims on the Camino for more than a decade now, and are as integrated into the Spanish pilgrimage infrastructure as two foreign hermits can be.
SO… Now that we have my past out of the way, We all can move forward.
Which requires a quick look at the Present.
Nowadays I am hospitality coordinator for the Fraternidad Internacional del Camino de Santiago, a camino activist group founded two years ago by some of the latter-day camino founders, including Jesus Jato and George Greenia.
I oversee the volunteers at two pilgrim albergues still dedicated to donations-based accommodation. We do good, on a donation basis, because that’s our franchise. Free-will accommodation is a major part of what makes the Camino unique. We have an overwhelmingly international group of volunteers…
Every single year is a record-breaker on the camino de Santiago, pilgrim-numbers wise. More than 270,000 people walked the camino last year, people from 160 countries. They walk all the year around, right through December and January – months when we used to rarely see anyone on the Road. The makeup the of pilgrims has changed greatly too. There are just as many women walking as men. Spaniards are now only 47% of the pilgrims. It’s not just a European phenomenon, either: the numbers of Americans, Russians, Chinese, and Korean pilgrims have increased more than 200 percent since 2011. In the summertime we open the church in Moratinos, our little town on the Meseta. Last year we saw our first pilgrims from Burundi, Mauritania, and Cabo Verde. People who can afford to fly from around the world are not poor.
The number of Camino routes has increased greatly as old routes are rediscovered and new routes are invented. Ten years ago, the paint was just drying on the Camino Portuguese waymarkers – now it’s the second-most traveled trail to Santiago. Another interesting change is the drop in the number of cyclists on the Camino. In the 1990’s, 21 percent of pilgrims rode bikes. In 2015, only 10 percent did it that way.
On the Camino Frances alone, there are now more than 400 places for pilgrims to spend a night. There are 1,200 places to stop and eat. I am not a statistician, but I can blithely say the number of pilgrim-targeted businesses on the camino Frances has quadrupled in the ten years I have lived on the trail. The increasing number of pilgrims has attracted the attention of the marketers, the entrepreneurs, the Capitalists.
And hereby hangs a conflict.
I will try to give a nice, value-free, balanced view, but I will warn you going into this Future that I am an idealist, and a Christian. I am judgmental. I consider the Camino de Santiago a sacred place, a monument that merits our respect and preservation.
You can travel the Camino de Santiago without being a pilgrim. It’s a beautiful place with a bargain-priced infrastructure and 3G and a fun vibe. You might have a great time, but you won’t have the same deep experience as many of the people you see out the bus window. You might have to come back again. “Today’s tourist is tomorrow’s pilgrim,” after all.
But this is a pilgrimage trail. If you are not a pilgrim, you are not fully invested in this experience. You should not expect to be treated as a pilgrim.
Pilgrimage is a spiritual journey, a discipline, a process of stripping away everything unneeded for basic survival. The person who seriously wants a pilgrim experience will go as minimalist as he can. He’ll leave behind technology and comforts and distractions. He’ll throw himself onto the mercy of the trail itself, just as pilgrims have done for a thousand years. He’ll depend on the kindness of others to provide him with a place to sleep, something to eat and drink, without presumption or entitlement. Pilgrims who take that kind of risk find themselves borne on a wave of providence. It’s a radical thing to do. It’s crazy, it’s scary. It’s kinda miraculous. And it still works.
This radical minimalism flies right into the face of our ingrained consumerism, and the travel industry — the people who are selling a safe, clean, dreamy Camino. Check out any FaceBook Camino page. There you’ll see the hotel and transport and “adventure destination” marketers; the folks who say that “real pilgrims” buy this or wear that or stay at this place, who tell you this trail, soap, backpack, sock, scarf, diary, app, bandage, credential, or guidebook may lead to a blister-free, painless, Camino Nirvana.
We Americans eat it up. We are born and raised to get and spend. We are born Consumers. “Value for Money” is the prime objective, “convenience” is ours by birthright. We live by “the customer is always right,” as well as “I spent good money on this, and I expect a return on my investment…” In recent years entrepreneurs along the trail have jumped up to meet our demands for clean, charming, and predictable accommodation, offered at a price we well-funded Westerners are prepared to pay.
We find the camino. We hear the call. We being born consumers, our first impulse is to Shop.
Second impulse? Find out everything possible in advance, read books and websites, and plot our course down to the last scripture verse and well-rated coffee bar.
We want it all, on our own terms.
We want an adventure, but we don’t like surprises.
We want all the enlightenment and excitement of a tough hike across a new land, but we want it safe, hygienic, and predictable, served with a smile at less than 20 Euros.
We want to stay at the albergue everyone else rated best, take the best photos of the local food and wine, write the blog everyone will read. And dammit, We want to look pretty and put-together at the end of the day!
Comfortable consumer Capitalism, and the primal simplicity of the Camino, (and pilgrimage,) are deeply at odds with one another.
And this is why the Camino de Santiago, when we finally get it, blows our American minds.
We are consumers, walking into a world where Less is More.
Where everyone is just as good or important or respectable as everyone else on the trail.
Where uncertainty and risk and flexibility… and even sacrifice and suffering (O my!) are built-in parts of the experience, maybe even requirements for a truly successful outcome.
In my opinion, North Americans are perfect pilgrim material. We are full of demands, expectations, dreams and plans and fears and derring-do. We carry hundreds of dollars’ worth of new equipment, as well as other great burdens. We have a lot to lose, bringing our complicated selves to such a simple, demanding place.
And on the Camino we find out quickly that our Stuff won’t save us. It only makes us suffer.
We find a place to sleep, with or without reservations. We find out how little stuff we need to get by. We find that no one cares what our hair looks like. We find people who care for us, no matter how we look or feel or act or even smell.
We find places to stay where we’re not viewed as walking wallets, where we are treated as friends, made welcome, offered comfort and simple food and care by people who volunteer to come and do this work.
Camino magic happens to us. It’s another world, another economy. An economy based on giving, not getting.
Remember that place that stands out in your mind, that albergue where you felt so welcome? Bring that back to your mind. Think about what it was that made it so special.
What made them stand out? Was it value for money? The number of power outlets? The swimming pool? The sparkling clean showers? The dinner, wine, laundry service? The massage?
Or was it the welcome? The hospitaleros?
These are small, often volunteer-run places. Often they are donativos, or they recently were.
Of more than 400 places to stay on the Camino Frances, 30 are still donativo. Many that once were donation-based still charge 6 euro or less, just to keep themselves alive on a trail plagued by freeloaders who won’t pay anything unless it is required.
Pilgrims traveling without resources, the people who albergues were originally aimed-at, are now back to sleeping in the street, as the low-cost beds are now full of, well… who are these pilgrims?
The donativo ideal is almost dead on the Camino Frances. Beloved, old-school albergues like Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Las Carbajales in Leon, and the Benedictinas in Sahagun all have given up on the donativo/volunteer model in the past few years, simply overwhelmed by the demand of something-for-nothing accommodation.
If pilgrim numbers continue to grow, or if they even level off at current levels, donativos will disappear, victims of high overhead costs, pilgrims who leave nothing in the box, as well as new provincial laws written to favor hoteliers. Plenty of people will continue to walk, but the Camino gold rush may really succeed in killing the goose that lays the golden eggs.
Last summer, up at Foncebadon, I heard some handsome American pilgrims discussing that former ghost town brought back to life in the past 20 years.
“This place is great! We did this. It’s our pilgrim money that brought this here,” one of them said. “Someone ought to invest in some nice paving, signage, marketing. Some safety measures, maybe. Imagine what some decent branding could do up here.”
“Yeah, clean this place up and you could make some good money. This could be really cute.”
Yeah, just imagine. Scruffy Foncebadon, and Tosantos, and Calzadilla de los Hermanillos… scrubbed down and paved and Disney-fied and cute.
I almost went Full Prophet on those guys, but I contained myself. They are consumers. They obviously had not walked up that mountain. They don’t know anything different. Unfortunately, many of the people who want to plasticize the Camino are thinking the very same way. People who see beautiful, unique things as opportunities to make money… or even well-meaning people who see something scruffy or rural or strange and feel compelled to “improve” it.
FICS is dedicated to exploring and dealing with this phenomenon. We have our work cut out for us. We work hard and make lots of noise, but we don’t have a lot of illusions.
Eventually, large parts of the camino will be as Disney-fied as the final 100 kilometers from Sarria, and the overbuilding and paving and improvements will render the Camino accessible and do-able to anyone with money. Families who open spare rooms to pilgrims will be outlawed, minimum charges will be levied on all accommodations, and Compostela certificates will be issued by vending machines or print-your-own apps.
Once the Camino is fully commodified, numbers will peak even higher than we see now. People in search of easy grace and instant karma will flood in and have a whale of a time. Prices will rise, accommodations will become more private and luxurious as the low-cost/bunkhouse aesthetic is swept away in a flood of profit-making tourism. Groups like APOC will close down their hospitalero training programs, because hospitality will be turned over to the professionals. The crazy old prophets and healers will be distant memories – cardboard cutouts standing outside souvenir shops.
The camino as it is today is not sustainable. A corporate camino, with all its good-will hospitality stripped away, will be even less so. We will eliminate the ver simplicity that make the camino unique.
Maybe the great blow will come in a flash. Tourists are notoriously fickle and fearful. A single serious terror attack would strip out a good 50 percent of that year’s pilgrim numbers, and continue to affect the phenomenon for years after.
Maybe it will be a slow slide. Eventually, everyone who is anyone will have done the camino. It will fall out of fashion, and numbers will slowly drop off. Like Yogi Berra said, “Nobody goes there anymore, it’s too crowded.” The expensive hotels will die first, and slowly the rest will fall away, too, over many years. The pavement will crumble. Trees will grow tall and drop their leaves on the path, year after year. What’s cool today will be history in just a few years. Our grandchildren will look at our pilgrimages, and maybe they’ll laugh a little at our silly trendy-ness, and wonder why we bothered fighting so hard for a nasty old footpath. The plastic camino will die, yet again the victim of changing times. I believe that within 70 years of today, the camino will go back to sleep.
But it will not die.
Farther, deeper into the future, a few people will read our old accounts, and feel the pull of that old road. A few of them will put on what passes for a pack in those future days. They’ll find a handy starting-place, and they’ll start walking.
Somewhere along the Way, a resident will meet the traveler, and invite him in for a glass of wine, or a meal. He’ll offer a bed in the spare room, or the barn. He won’t ask for money. The pilgrim won’t offer to pay. Once again, as through the ages, the pilgrimage will not be a transaction. It will be a work of grace.
The bartender will give the rain-soaked wanderer an extra cup of broth, because his grandma used to do that for pilgrims, back in the day. There won’t be a hundred other pilgrims pushing in the door, so he’ll be able to talk to the stranger, hear his story.
On Sunday morning, if he’s lucky, the pilgrim can follow the church bell into a parish church, and be welcomed as a special, lucky guest at the neighborhood Mass.
He’ll sleep wherever he can find a bed. He’ll probably pay, and probably be ripped-off now and then. He’ll sleep outdoors some times. He’ll be rained-on, sunburned, bed-bugged, and blistered. He will sing out loud, and laugh at his own jokes, and learn difficult truths about himself.
And eventually he will reach Santiago de Compostela, where the cathedral will, perhaps, award him with a Compostela certificate. Or maybe they’ll have gotten out of the souvenir business by then.
This is my prophecy:
The camino has survived all kinds of abuses over hundreds of years – plagues, wars, famines, Renaissances, Reformations, Fascists and Republics, even the Spanish Inquisition! It will survive Consumerism, too. We humans crucify the very thing that makes us most alive. It dies, and is buried. But on the third day, it rises again.
The Camino will survive us. The pilgrims will not stop walking, and the trail will not fail to rise up and welcome them, until we utterly destroy the Way. Or we destroy our selves.

christmas journey – pilgrims
December 27, 2015, 5:09 pm
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We’ve been using this traditional poem from Mexico as a basis for some of our Christmas reflection:

“Who knocks at my door so late?”

“We are pilgrims without shelter and we want a place to rest.”

“Go somewhere else. Don’t disturb me again!”

“But the night is very cold. We have come from afar and are very tired.”

“But who are you?”

“I am Joseph of Nazareth, a carpenter. With me is Mary, my wife, who will be the Mother of the Son of God.”

“Then, come into my humble home, and welcome! May the Lord give shelter to my soul when I leave this world!”


I love the observation of one of the children I shared it with in school: 

They only let them in when they knew it was Mary and Joseph.  

Let’s pray for to see with the eyes and heart of God, to have practical compassion for all who need it.

the pilgrim industry
August 6, 2015, 10:00 am
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There’s an excellent repeat of the BBC Radio comedy The Leopard in Autumn which you can listen again to here.  While it doesn’t feature the Head of John the Baptist as a boy, it tells us a great deal that rings true about the medieval pilgrim industry.

That all said, I am a pilgrim.  I am happy finding holiness in places like those three coffins in the Crypt of Santiago Cathedral.

April 9, 2015, 2:20 pm
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My friend Barbara has sent me this wonderful wall hanging.


The central image of the pilgrim is based on a photo I took while walking the Camino de Levante through La Mancha what is now years ago. I remember the day. It was hot. The Camino led me onto a bank through a field. As always in those solitary weeks, my shadow was my companion. For once I was walking a short day – I wanted to spend time immersing myself in an ordinary town – so I had time to walk slowly and play. It took a while to pose the photo of the shadow-me walking against a background of bleached cereal stubble.

I love the hanging. I am spending time thinking through the best place to put it. Somewhere to remind me that I am always a pilgrim and that the hard learned lessons of the Camino are always in front of me.

(and I will post next week with plans for another big pilgrimage in the future)

¡Buen Camino!

pilgrimage to walsingham

Once again, a wonderful pilgrimage to the Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham last weekend.  Sadly my last one with St Gabriel’s but wonderful to spend time again with folk along with pilgrims from St Bede’s.

There always seems to be some sort of controversy going on in the various pilgrim forums that you need to walk to be a pilgrim.  I love walking pilgrimages, but there is something special and deep about these weekend voyages by car or coach to a shrine.


We did walk to the Slipper Chapel


Which meant a cup of tea to warm up


even for the shy.

We worshipped hard and deeply, we ate well, we had space for praying and reflecting, we talked, we spent the evenings in what Chrissy has wisely termed ‘The Holy Pub’


and there was more walking at the very end, following Jesus.

The goodness, humaness and healing of pilgrimage.


One of the highlights of the time in Italy was a day’s pilgrimage to Assisi.

On a hot morning, we found a car park outside the city and followed a stream of pilgrims walking up a dusty road through the countryside.  We climbed some steps and were next to the Walls.  Our journey took us first to Saint Claire’s Basilica.



One of the most moving parts of this was spending some time praying in front of the San Damiano Crucifix, the Icon, originally the ruined Chapel of San Damiano, through which Christ commanded Francis to “Repair my Church for it is falling down”.


In amongst the bustle and busyness of one of the big pilgrim destinations, it can be difficult to get a purchase on things.  As we walked through the town we passed The Pilgrim’s Oratory.  This was built in 1457 as the Chapel of a Pilgrim Hostel by the Confraternities of St Antony Abbot and St James of Compostella.


It is now in the care of the Franciscan Missionary Sisters of Assisi as a place for adoration of the Blessed Sacrament.  We found this a beautiful and necessary place to pray quietly.

Walking to the other end of the Assisi, we reached the Basilica of St Francis.


We entered the lower Church first (to the bottom left of the picture).  On the darkness here we journeyed to the Tomb of Francis.  Among the relics which are on display is his tunic, speaking so much of the utter poverty of his life and way.


Then the Upper Church with its light and the frescoes telling the story of Francis’ life.

picture from Wikipedia Commons

picture from Wikipedia Commons

Fresco by Giotto, from Wikipedia Commons

Fresco by Giotto, from Wikipedia Commons

There was still much to see, but this was enough for a day, enough to spend time pondering, reflecting, feeding on.  We had not originally planned to go to Italy, but – as so often with St Francis – I find myself being drawn close to him, his family, his way, without seeking it.